Steps to Dewinterize your Boat

It’s spring and time to dewinterize your boat, also known as spring commissioning or even “summerizing” depending on where you’re from. Knowing when to de-winterize your boat is as important as the process of de-winterizing itself. Do it too early and your boat is subjected to a freeze which can be very damaging to your engine. But like most boaters, you want to get your boat back in the water as soon as possible. Holding off on spring commissioning when the process could be completed means lost days of boating fun.

Whenever you decide the time is right based on the weather, follow a thorough process and do not skip steps.

Each boating season, there are two common sights. One involves boaters having a grand time cruising the waters. The other sight consists of the boaters who failed to properly dewinterize their vessels and have one problem after another. The water pump stops working, the stern light will not turn on, a belt breaks and/or there is an odd noise coming from the engine. Most problems could have been avoided simply by going through a step-by-step boat dewinterization process or spring boat commissioning to check everything from lights to fluid levels to instruments to engine and so much more.

There are two parts to this story. One is getting the engine or outboard motor ready for boating, and the other is getting the boat itself ready. It seems part and parcel, but an engine can run smoothly and the electronics fail because of a wiring issue, or the boat may look beautiful with its new wax job (hint…hint), but the engine has corroded parts which will inevitably cause you problems in the middle of the lake.

Part 1: De-winterizing the Engine or Outboard Motor

First, it must be noted that this discussion assumes you properly winterized your boat. What you are doing is undoing some steps taken to protect your boat during the cold weather months and adding some new tasks. If you did not winterize your boat…all we can say is uh oh…better contact a marine technician right away.

Oil – Even if you changed the oil at the end of the last boating season, it is a good idea to change it again. A couple of points to keep in mind. Using a motor oil specifically for a marine engine is advised. Amsoil provides an excellent explanation of the importance of using a dedicated marine oil.

• Marine oil is formulated with anti-rust and anti-corrosion additives that help the oil adhere to engine components and the crankcase walls. Otherwise, oil slips back into the oil sump when the motor is turned off. It is more likely rust and corrosion will develop when a boat sits for a while without turning on the engine. Rust can impact the crankshaft journals (rotating part of a shaft inside a bearing), piston rings and cylinder wall. Aluminum parts can corrode, especially in humid climates. Damp air can get into the combustion chamber and promote aluminum piston corrosion. Use marine oil with additives, and these problems are much less likely to happen.
• Fuel dilution due to cold engine – Outboard motors use river or lake water for cooling most of the time. Cold water is drawn into the cooling system and circulated through the motor. There is no radiator with coolant, so it takes the motor longer to warm up. In the meantime, the rings are not completely sealing, creating clearance between the ring and cylinder walls. Fuel can leak into the oil sump, and diluted oil reduces the ability of the oil to do its job of protecting motor components.
• Oil stress – Marine motors frequently work under a constant load which can break down motor oil. A boat going 30 mph is operating at 5,000 rpm with no break when cruising. The increased stress on the oil can lead to a loss of oil viscosity. The oil will not form a durable lubricating film when viscosity breaks down.

Be sure to use a quality marine oil that suits the engine or 4-stroke or 2-stroke motor. Amsoil is not the only marine oil brand. Others include Quicksilver, Red Line and Shell brands, to name just a few. If for some reason you do not use marine oil (not recommended!) and use automotive oil, be sure to add a marine additive to the oil.

There are a couple of other oil related thoughts to add. One is to buy synthetic marine oil for the two and four-stroke motors that is certified by the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA). Also change the oil filter before heading out.

Fuel and fuel lines – Did you top off your tank when winterizing your boat? Hopefully you did because that is a key step in preventing condensation and moisture from collecting in the fuel tank while the boat sits. If you get water in your fuel tank, then hire a marine professional for fuel disposal, so it can be refilled with ethanol-free gas. Always change the fuel filter. This is the ideal time to install an all-metal water separator filter which meets the requirements established by ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) and the USCG (United States Coast Guard). Also, add a spare filter to your supplies.

So your next dewinterizing step is checking out the fuel lines. Some fuel lines will get brittle or stiff during the winter months, especially when the boat is kept on the water rather than put in storage.

There are other issues with fuel lines to keep in mind. One is that they have an inner plastic liner, and the liner can collapse or narrow the channel. It can degrade over time at any point along the fuel line. Ethanol in unleaded gasoline can speed up the process too because it is corrosive to plastics and rubber. (It can also contribute to water in the fuel.)

A fuel line collapse or narrowing restricts the flow of fuel. Another issue is that an inline fuel filter can crack. Yet another part to check is the fuel primer bulb to make sure it is in good condition and working properly.

Sometimes, it is difficult to find ethanol-free gas, but always try to fill your boat tank with it. There is even a website called Buy Real Gas that shows where ethanol-free gas is available in each state.

Belts – Check all the belts to make sure they are not brittle, worn, cracked or loose. If loose, then tighten them. However, a loose belt or hose showing signs of wear should be replaced in an act of caution. During winterization, you may have loosened the belts to avoid excessive wear, so they all need re-tightening. By the way, the alternator belt is the belt that usually wears out faster than other belts. At Mariner Exchange, we adhere to the philosophy of better safe than sorry – better smoothly cruising than sorry you are stranded because you took de-winterizing shortcuts.

Keeping the spark – Ask yourself this: Are the spark plugs in good condition, free of moisture and tightly in place? Better check! Part of this process is removing the distributor cap to ensure there is no corrosion. Might as well check the carburetor too. Though not directly connected to spark plugs, the carburetor mixes the correct amount of air and fuel for combustion. It should always be kept tuned up.

Bits, pieces and components – When checking the engine or motor, look for loose nuts, bolts and connectors. Check for corrosion on any metal components. Inspect the rubber elements on motor mounts and the motor mounts themselves. Test the winch motor. Flip all the switches on and off and make sure they start and stop what they are intended to start and stop. Check the safety stop lanyard.

Part 2: De-winterizing the Rest of the Boat

As important as the engine or motor is to boating fun, it is only one component of the bigger picture. Your boat has many other systems and components that need attention when preparing for boat launching. As Paul Harvey would have said, “Here’s the rest of the story.”

Steering system – You want to make sure the steering still works smoothly. Stiff steering is common after a boat is unused for a while, but it can also be hazardous on the water. If the steering stiffness is clearly not loosening when you turn the steering wheel, there may be a blockage of some kind in the steering tube. It could be grease has hardened or something simple like the power steering fluid level is low.

After removing the blockage and adding power steering fluid, lubricate your steering system. Lubricate steering arm connections, hydraulic steering rams, control rods and shift and lever cables or components. If basic maintenance efforts do not work, please (double please) contact a local marine technician to check out your steering system. You want your boat to do what you order it to do while docking and cruising.

Cooling system – Did you drain your cooling system when you winterized? If so, rinse it out, and refill it with antifreeze. If you did not drain it before winter, then you need to flush the cooling system now and then replace the antifreeze. This is a great time to look for cracks in the hoses too.

Onboard water system – During winterizing, you should have filled your fresh water tank with antifreeze. Now you need to flush it out while the water tank is disconnected from the water pump. After flushing the fresh water tank, hook up the pump and flush out the water lines. Build up some pressure, and then open any faucets or shower head to let water flow through.

Drive system – There are three basic types of drive systems: inboard, stern drive and outboard. The type of drive system determines your de-winterization steps.

Change the oil in the transmission of an inboard while changing the engine’s oil. Also, check where the prop shaft passes through the hull, and make sure it is waterproofed.

A sterndrive system also needs the oil changed, but in addition you want to grease all the parts. They include the pivot and tilt pins and gimbal housing plus any rubber bellows or gaskets. The same is true for the outboard. Change the oil, and grease the tilt and trim pivot pins.

Propeller – The prop needs a visual inspection for potential damage whether or not it was left on the boat or stored in your garage. It is amazing how damage occurs. Something in the water, like a log, hits the propeller during a storm even though the prop is tilted up, or storm debris hits the prop while the boat is on a lift. Then there is the prop stored in the garage that fell off the wall (true story) where it was hung. If the prop has algae growth on it because it was stored down in the winter, always clean the prop first and then inspect it. Never try to skimp on the prop because this small piece of equipment makes all the difference between a great cruise and one that damages the boat.

Battery – This one is easy! Make sure every battery on your boat works like new. Recharge the batteries and test them. Even if you had them on a trickle charger, there is no assurance they will work with full power. Batteries are picky items that can only take so many cycles of draining and recharging. Inspect and clean terminals and cable ends. If you have any doubt about the battery’s reliability, go ahead and buy a new battery at a local marine business.

Pumps – So does your water pump work? Does the bilge pump work? Has your seawater pump been serviced in the past year? Check impellers, wiring and fittings. Turn off the bilge pump and double check the automatic bilge pump float to make sure it is working.

Anodes – Go on an anode treasure hunt. Sacrificial anodes are located in obvious places like props, shafts, struts, hull plates, rudders, and other places underwater. Anodes are located in less-than-obvious places too. On outdrives they may be attached to the gear case or located in the exhaust cavity. Check all the anodes because these bits of metal prevent metal from corroding, so they really become safety items too.

Uncover openings – If you winterized your boat properly, there are openings that need uncovering. They include air inlets, crankcase and transmission breathers and exhaust outlets. Uncover the openings, and then check for blockages that may have developed despite all your efforts to prevent them.

Electronics – Now is the time to make sure all the electronics work. Waiting until you are on the water is a BIG mistake. Connect the electronics to the battery bank and check all the electronics, including the VHF radio, GPS, depth finder, fish finder and any other navigational systems.

Lighting – Your navigation lights must work in order to be legal and for safety reasons. There are three types of lights commonly found on boats. They are the red and green sidelights, the white stern light and the white masthead light. In some states, the all-round white light may combine the stern light and masthead light into a single light. This light will also become the anchor light when the sidelights are not turned on. Of course, you need to follow the state laws and regulations, and ensure your lights meet the requirements. You also want to check cabin lights because sitting in the dark is no fun.

Clean, polish and wax – Make sure the hull is clean of all growths. You may have cleaned and waxed the hull when the boat was stored in storage or on a lift, and that’s great! If you did not, then either do it before putting the boat back into the water, or at least clean the hull of growths if the boat was stored in water. If you do not want to do the hull waxing yourself then hire a marine expert who does boat waxing and detailing.

There is more on the boat that needs polishing and waxing. You should wax the deck and any other fiberglass, and polish the railings. Clean all the vinyl and apply a protectant to prevent fading. If you have a boat made of natural wood (brightwork), make repairs to the varnish and wax with a product containing UV filters.

Also, clean vinyl, PVC, clear acrylic or other plastic windows of any dirt, dust and grime. Be careful you do not use a product that can scratch the clear vinyl. Dry the plastic windows with a microfiber towel, and polish them with a plastic polish and soft foam pad. In between drying and polishing, you can use a plastic restorer product to remove scratches and hazing.

Critters – During the winter months, it is not unusual for small and large critters to look for safe haven. Boats have become homes for squirrels, chipmunks, mice, rats, raccoons, insects and a host of other varmints. Various animals and insects can do a lot of obvious damage, like shred seat cushions. They can also do not-so-obvious damage, like chew through wiring and plastic lines (especially water lines). Be sure to check out your boat from stem to stern, and look for signs of damage.

Though the list of items seems long, it is really not difficult to de-winterize a boat. A lot of the advice is common sense and many tasks are things that should be done regularly anyway, like making sure engine belts are tightened, visually inspecting the prop and ensuring the bilge pump is operational.

Do not forget some of the simplest steps too, like blowing the horn and ensuring a davit still works smoothly. You want to be able to access your dinghy whenever you want.

Commissioning a Boat

The previous discussion concerns “spring commissioning” or “seasonal commissioning” which addresses returning the boat to use after storage or a months-long period of non-use for any reason. Commissioning a boat without referencing a particular season usually refers to one of two events.

One is installing the equipment and components that belong on a new or remodeled boat before the boat is launched. The second is commissioning a boat that has been removed from the water for repairs or modifications and then returned to use. The commissioning process involves installing:

• Communications equipment, i.e. satellite equipment, VHF radio, AIS transponders, antennas, etc.
• Electronics, i.e. marine GPS, electronic charts, depth finder, fish finder, multi-function displays, engine monitors, etc.
• Entertainment equipment, i.e. stereo system, satellite TV system, Bluetooth, internet access, etc.
• Other, i.e. heating and air conditioning system, safety systems, dinghy davit, cabinetry, additional lighting, etc.

When the boat is ready for launching, think of it as a spring commissioning, and go through each item discussed to ensure nothing was overlooked. You can find a local commissioning marine specialist through Mariner Exchange.

Restock the Boat

There are items on a boat that are nice to have and items that are essential to human safety. In one instance, a boat out for its first time cruise in the spring after a long, cold winter was stranded. The vessel was shaking and shimmering so much that it felt like the whole boat would come apart. The boat owner jumped into the water to check the prop and shaft up close, and in doing so, severely cut his hand. Climbing back into the boat, he quickly ran to the cabinet where the first aid kit is kept and…nothing.

It is so easy to forget unobtrusive but essential pieces of equipment or supplies. The best practice is to make a list during winterization of everything removed and each winterization step taken. In the spring, you can use the checklist to make sure nothing is forgotten. Following are some items to restock.

• First aid kit restocked? Check!
• Spare parts? Check?
• Emergency kit? Check!
• Life vests? Check!
• Unexpired fire extinguisher? Check!
• Anchor? Check!
• Extra prop pins? Check!
• Oar? Check!

One of the problems is that people get so anxious to go boating that they get in a rush. That never works and can ruin your first trip back out. This list does not purport to cover everything, but it gives you a good idea of the spring commissioning process. You can find professional boat dewinterizing services near you by visiting Mariner Exchange.