The previous discussion demonstrated there are numerous lines, ropes, rods and equipment on a sailboat. The particular rigging may differ from sailboat to sailboat (part of the fun of owning a sailboat), but even the simplest one-mast, one sail boat has a variety of lines to master. Making it all the more complex is the fact there are different types of lines in terms of material and cost and a whole universe of related parts and equipment.

Sail rigging

Need a battcar? You might if you are sailing alone or have a crew that doesn’t have much sailing experience yet. The battcar lets you raise, reef and douse a full-battened main on all points of sail while you stay in the cockpit. Maybe you need mast climbing hardware, rubber or polyester shock cords, mast adjusters like a shroud lever or stay adjuster, or flat nylon or propylene webbing. These are a few of the types of sail rigging that could be found at a boat supply store near you.

Running rigging

Running rigging is made in a variety of materials and styles. You can buy single braid, double braid or three strand line or rope and have a choice of diameter. Larger diameter line is needed when there is a heavier load on halyards and sheets.

Today, there is a variety of line fibers, and each has a particular set of characteristics.

  • Nylon – the original synthetic fiber that is not used much in running rigging anymore; has up to 15 percent stretch, durability, and abrasion resistance and will absorb water
  • Polyester – synthetic fiber that is stretchy, has good abrasion resistance, flexible, does not float; often used as a cover for double braid lines because of its durability during frequent line adjusting
  • High-modulus polyethylene (HMPE) – patented material with high strength-to-weight ratio, low stretch and a high workload; does experience creep under a sustained static load; good material for braid core because of its low stretch
  • Polypropylene – synthetic fiber that is frequently blended with other fibers, like HMPE; floats, does not absorb water, poor UV resistance; medium durability; creep is dependent on its application; good for frequently adjusted lines
  • Aramid – heat resistant, strong synthetic fiber, low stretch, does not creep, medium chafe resistance, not tolerant of UV light, the core must be covered or coated; often blended with another fiber to improve durability
  • Liquid crystal polymer line – patented synthetic fiber (Vectran) with almost no stretch and no creep; low water absorption; high breaking strength; strong core material, UV resistant; often used for upwind sail halyards under static loads

There are some other options that are very expensive and used mostly for special purposes, like sailboat racing.

Various aspects of cordage to consider include:

  • Diameter
  • Core material
  • Cover material (if it has a cover)
  • Breaking strength – determined by diameter and/or fibers
  • Stretch and creep factors
  • Suitability for sheets and hand-adjusted controls
  • Application – halyards, sheets, control lines, utility, tiedowns, lashing, etc.
  • Suitability for use in winch
  • Abrasion factor
  • Color
  • Line texture – smooth or knobby for better grip

Who knew a simple line could have so many characteristics?!

Standing rigging

Standing rigging is unique in that it is fixed and doesn’t move – cap shrouds, backstays, diagonals, inner forestays, etc. There are three types of standing rigging:

  • Rod rigging – coiled rod up to a certain diameter and solid rod beyond that made of high quality alloy; corrosion resistant, breaking strength higher than wire; low stretch characteristics; long lifespan
  • Wire rigging – today, usually stainless steel wire rope is most commonly used on sailboats
  • Synthetic rigging – newest type of standing rigging (Dyneema, PBO cable, Aramid, carbon fiber); lighter weight than rod or wire rigging; higher tensile breaking strength; low stretch; shorter lifespan compared to metal rigging

The category of standing rigging includes items like turnbuckles, toggles, flexible wire, spreader boots, shroud covers, toggles, cable covers, t-bolts, jib rollers, eye jaw toggles, stainless steel t-ball fitting for wire, wire rope clamp, marine eyes, thimble, rope stopper ball, eye grab hook, and more.

Hydraulic and other mechanical systems

Some items are called “rigging equipment” or “rigging accompaniments” because they aren’t lines or wires. They assist with the use of lines and wires. These items include equipment like:

Other: Supplies, Bits and Pieces

There is always an “other” category, isn’t there. This category is the many tools and supplies used on sailboats. This includes items like the fid (for splicing rope); hinges for objects that need to remain upright when the boats rolls, like lamps or the stove; hanks (clips used to fasten a sail to a stay); marlinespike (pointed tool for separating strands of a rope or wire); palm (thimble-like structure worn on the hand while sewing sails); parrot beak (clip at the end of a spinnaker pole to hold the guy); shackle (u-shaped connector); snap hook; snatch block (can be opened on one side so can be placed on a line already in use); tang (metal fitting on the mast used for attaching spreaders); thimble (metal fitting for strengthening an eye or loop splice made in wire or rope; trunnion hoop (hinged fitting placed at the top of the most to hold a second mast above it and….well you get the idea.

The list of all the bits and pieces that are part of the sailboat’s rigging goes on and on. The boat supplier can sell you a:

  • Bitt - post mounted on a stern or bow to which mooring lines or an anchor are attached
  • Block and tackle – block is a pully that carries a line and can change the line’s direction of movement plus has housing that enables connecting it to a spar or another line; tackle is the line
  • Cam cleat – mechanical cleat that uses two spring loaded cams that come together so teeth can clamp on a line to hold it
  • Chafing gear – cloth, tape or other materials placed to prevent two objects from rubbing together
  • Chainplates – plates on the deck that are used to attach lines and stays
  • Chock – fitting through which a line can pass through for control
  • Fasteners – nails, screws, rivets, etc.
  • Gaskets – ties used to tie up furled sails
  • Grommet – ring used to attach a line, like on a sail
  • Jacob’s ladder – rope ladder
  • Jaws – fitting holding a gaff or boom to the mast
  • Lugs – plastic or metal pieces attached to a luff that allow the sail to slide in a mast track
  • Pad eye – small fitting with a hole for guiding a line
  • Runners – adjustable stays to control tension on the mast

Rigging Maintenance

A boatswain is the crew member who is responsible for keeping the sails, hull and rigging in good condition. Chances are that’s YOU. Adhering to routine rigging maintenance is critical to safe sailing. You should inspect all lines and wires regularly for issues like the following:

  • Broken strands on wire rigging
  • Rust streaks on wire
  • Corrosion
  • Cracks in the wire
  • Normal aging
  • Stretching in the wire that does not recover

Some of the rigging on a sailboat experiences the most wear and tear, like the standing rigging’s stays, shrouds, turnbuckles and terminals and the running rigging’s sheets, halyards, vangs and guys. They are either carrying heavy loads or subjected to high pressure. Maintenance must necessarily include the following:

  • Ensure the turnbuckles and chainplates are properly angled, meaning in a direct line with stays and shrouds
  • Look for cracking on the deck around fittings indicating lines may be misaligned
  • Look for cracking or stress fractures in the fittings
  • Wash and rinse stainless steel rigging regularly with water-soluble soap and water
  • Regularly clean plastic-coated cables and look for indications of rust seeping through from the core wire corroding
  • Regularly unstep the mast on smaller sailboats, especially if frequently trailered
  • Regularly inspect halyards, sheets, vangs and guys
  • Regularly inspect any spot where there is a splice
  • Ensure blocks have no stress cracks and no indications of distortion, like metal stretching

Rigging, Mast and Boom Services

Rigging should be professionally inspected once a year, and one of the best times is when preparing the boat for winter storage. Rigging failure is not just something that ruins sailing fun. It is a safety hazard and can lead to a severely damaged boat.

Expert advice is needed on topics like which furler is the right size for the boat. It requires careful measurement of the headstay length and the ability to compensate for things like extra toggles in order to determine the best wire length. Marine technicians can perform inspections and provide critical services like:

  • Replacing rigging (re-rigging) – approximately every 10-15 years, rigging should be replaced
  • Converting rod rigging to wire rigging
  • Unstepping the mast for larger vessels, such as the need to use a crane
  • Splicing lines
  • Custom rope work
  • Custom lazy jacks
  • Replace or repair the mast and/or boom
  • Provide mast storage in a boatyard
  • Install furlers
  • Repair hydraulic and winch systems
  • Load test rigging
  • Tune rigging
  • Metal machining
  • Rigging inspections on deck or full inspection while boat is out of the water

Helping the Sailboat Sail

John Rousmaniere, noted author of books on sailing and yachting, said, “The goal is not to sail the boat, but rather to help the boat sail herself.”

That’s really what sailboat rigging is all about – helping the boat sail herself with the assistance of a skillful sailor able to manage the rigging. This discussion doesn’t even pretend to cover all the terminology or everything you need to know about rigging. It is just intended to give you a great start!

Do you need rigging, rigging inspection, rigging replacement, rigging supplies or equipment, or just have a question about the confusing sailing language? Follow this link to find sailboat rigging supplies and services near you. A simple search will take you to the nearest marine expert.